When Robert, Steve, Stephen and Chris set out across Iceland in memory of their great friend Karl Gunnlaugsson, they knew the journey would test both rider and machine.
It didn’t take long for Iceland to deliver.
After leaving Reykjavíc and already negotiating ten smaller river crossings, the team arrived at their first major test: the Þjórsá, Iceland’s longest river.
It would soon earn a new name amongst the group.
The River of Doom.
Crossing the River of Doom
Crossing Iceland’s glacial rivers on luggage-laden motorcycles was very different from simply pointing the bike towards the opposite bank and hoping for the best.
Strong currents, rocky riverbeds and murky water meant choosing the right route was essential. A mistake could easily result in a bike going down in the water – something nobody wanted to contemplate in the middle of the Icelandic Highlands.
Eventually, the team successfully negotiated the Þjórsá.
But reaching the opposite bank didn’t mean the challenge was over.
Far from it.
Waiting for them was what became known as the Wall of Doom.
And Then Came the Wall of Doom…
The usual exit from the river had been obstructed by large boulders, apparently placed there to prevent large 4x4s from using the ramp.
That left the motorcycles facing a steep, rocky and extremely technical climb out of the river.
As Robert later admitted, any experienced trials riders watching the footage might wonder what all the dithering was about.
The climb was considerably steeper than it appeared covered in rocks and wet moss, with fully loaded motorcycles making the task even more challenging.
By the time every rider and motorcycle had successfully negotiated the River of Doom and its accompanying wall, around an hour had passed.
Fortunately, this was Iceland in summer.
With approximately 23 hours and a half of daylight, at least they weren’t going to be caught out by the dark.
Who’s Going in First?
The Þjórsá wasn’t the only major river standing between the team and their destination.
Next up was the Ölfusá, a river carrying an enormous volume of water.
Before attempting to take the motorcycles through, somebody needed to find out exactly what they were dealing with.
Step forward, Will Minta.
Will is an accomplished trials rider, and Robert is quick to point out just how important those skills become when tackling terrain like this.
His daughter Alice is a highly accomplished trials rider herself, while his son is equally at home on an enduro bike. Will apparently remains baffled about where they get it from.
Robert has a simpler explanation:
Trials.
In his view, trials is one of the most important disciplines in motorcycling. Balance, control, line choice and understanding what a motorcycle is doing beneath you become invaluable when you’re faced with rivers, rocks and unpredictable terrain.
Naturally, that also made Will the perfect candidate for another important role.
The team’s “human dip-stick”.
Finding a Way Across
Will headed into the water on foot to assess the depth and help identify a suitable route for the motorcycles.
Markers in the river showed the route used by 4x4s, but following them wasn’t necessarily an option.
A large 4×4 can enter much deeper water, carry more speed and create a bow wave ahead of the vehicle. A heavily laden motorcycle is a very different proposition.
Dropping one of the bikes into the deeper, murky water simply wasn’t worth the risk.
There was another danger to consider too.
According to Robert, this was their first encounter with the notorious long-nosed ridge-back Icelandic crocodile.
Yet another reason to send Will in first.
Apparently, he can fight anything.
350km Later…
Eventually, the rivers were behind them and the team could continue deeper into the Icelandic interior.
After nine hours on the move and approximately 350km covered, a small red and yellow mountain hut finally appeared.
After everything the day had thrown at them, Robert had never been so pleased to see a wooden shack.
The fire was lit, water was boiled and the evening meal consisted of military rations – which, after a day like that, were surprisingly welcome.
At 1:30am, Robert stepped outside to find himself standing in broad daylight – one of those strange Icelandic moments that served as another reminder of just how far from home they really were.
Waiting at the hut was something considerably more useful too.
Their friend Einar Sigurðsson had arranged for 60 litres of fuel to be left ready for the following day’s riding, another example of the support that made this expedition possible.
And Then They Had to Do It All Again
Within around an hour of leaving the hut the following morning, Iceland presented them with yet another major river.
Once again, attention turned towards Will.
Would he go in and check it?
His response, according to Robert, isn’t suitable for publication.
This time, the team took one look at the crossing and decided discretion was the better part of valour.
Rather than risk the bikes, they followed the river until they eventually found a more suitable place to cross.
Another hour lost.
But that was exactly what they had travelled to Iceland for.
They wanted adventure.
And Iceland was certainly giving them one.
The River of Doom may have been their first major test, but it was only one chapter in an expedition filled with extraordinary riding, challenging terrain and stories that the team won’t be forgetting any time soon.